- There are 3 types of weaving, warp faced, weft faced, and balanced.
- The whole reason you have any type of loom is to keep your warp in order with even tension.
- If you have neat and even tensioned warp, weaving is just better. The set-up is really important.
- Especially on a rigid heddle loom, don't use a stretchy yarn for your warp. You have a lot more options for the weft.
- Always lay in the weft at an angle to reduce draw in.
- No Knots in the warp or weft, except when tying on the front or rear beam.
- On a rigid heddle loom, always have an odd number of warp threads. the end or selvage threads are always in the slots.
- They call it a beater, but it is more of a squeezer.
- Remember that your cloth is going to shrink.
- EPI = ends per inch in the Warp. Do a wrap around a ruler and divide by 2 for a balanced weave.
- PPI = picks per inch. This is the count of how many time you throw the shuttle to lay in the weft.
Formula for figuring how much fiber you will need.
1. EPI X the width you are going to weave= total ends
2. Total ends times the length of your weaving (remember to include loom waste. On the Cricket that is about a foot).
3. Keep in mind shrinkage (about 10%) and loom waste.
4. So you are using a heddle that is 8 EPI. Weaving a piece that is 6 inches wide.
5. That is a total of 48 ends. You always want an odd number, so 49 ends.
6. If I want my weaving to be 48 inches long, add loom waste, (depends on loom, 12 to 36”), and that would be 60 inches. 49 times 60 equals 2940 inches, or 81 yards. There is also a certain amount of length lost when you release tension and remove the fabric from the loom, up to 10%. That varies from fiber to fiber an weaver to weaver, how hard you beat, how tight you have your loom tension, on and on.
7. That is the warp. I usually just go with that number for the weft. It is usually overkill. But, the weft varies on how hard you beat, how much angle you put in, all that. This is a good place to start.
TAPESTRY SPECIFIC NOTES:
1. This is a weft faced weave. So the warp is not supposed to show except at the top and bottom, maybe.
2. My Favorite warp is cotton seine. Rug warp, (8/4 cotton), linen rug warp, all work well. I like the seine because it has a very tight twist and is very tough. Rug warp is the easiest to get ahold of and most cost effective. Fine for decorative pieces. This is all based on an 8 epi warp. (Last I looked Yarn Barn has seine in colors. See resource page.)
3. Remember to use both hands to advance the warp evenly.
4. Then you start a second item on the same warp remember to add a firm base, (the black thread doubled and woven thru both sheds, tied to either side of the pipe loom. Remove the base threads before you advance it.).
Looms, to name a few, the Mirrix, they have many, I use a Saffron or am looking at the newer Chloe, Schacht Looms, They have easel weavers or the Arras. Schacht looms are in general my favorite, I also use my Saffron alot. Choose the loom that speaks to you. You have to love it. There are a lot to choose from.
